We usually go for a week in January, just after New Year's. The weather can be in the 40s, but can also be quite cold- and rainy. It's a great time to visit museums as they are not as crowded. Play it by ear- if the weather is good, do the outside parts (although the gardens and Montmartre will not be as interesting as they are in the summer). If it's cold, do the museums- I recommend the Rodin and the Museum of Decorative Arts. Plan on stops for hot chocolate or coffee. Yes, the lights are wonderful. The xxxmas decorations are still up. Go by the Hotel de Ville to see the skating rink and carousel- at night. Most of all, take the boat ride from the foot of the Eiffel Tour in the late afternoon- you can time it so that you come back up the Seine as it gets dark and just as the lights on the Eiffel Tower start to sparkle- wonderful! Also, you'll practically have the vote to yourselves, not be packed in like you are in the summer.
Don't forget that Paris is actually quite a bit milder in the winter than many Americans expect. Right now, for instance, you'd be quite comfortable in a jacket or light coat. You could spend your day riding around on a bike in February!
Oh, I love Paris in winter. It's a great place to get last-minute holiday gifts for people. And, hotel and hostel prices are much better. If it actually snows, it's beautiful!!!
I was in Paris last week: I did bike at the beginning of the week (perfect temperature) but then, for 2 days, it became too cold. So it is quite variable.
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